![]() I used new tie-rod ends that were threaded to a depth of 1-1/4" for a total of 20 tpi. Install new tie-rod end, or use your original one. Run the hex die nut back off the tie-rod, which will clean up the end threads. Remove tie-rod end and remove the cut off portion from within the tie-rod end. With the shoulder of the jam nut as a guide, hacksaw thru the tie-rod. ![]() Use vise grips firmly attached to the tie-rod for greater stability. I ended up using an 18" adjustable wrench that I had. ![]() Using cutting fluid and a 12" adjustable wrench, rethread the tie-rod to an additional depth of 1-1/4". Reattach to the steering arm and lock the jam nut to the tie-rod end. Refit the jam nut and tie-rod end to the tie-rod (the open shoulder of the jam nut should be approximately 1" from the end of the tie-rod). Now run a 9/16" x 16 TPI BSF hex die nut on to the threaded portion of the tie-rod. Remove the tie-rod end from the steering arm along with the jam nut. This can be carried out without disassembling the tie-rods from the steering rack, and can be done either before you completely dismantle the front end, or in the final stages of the conversion. This operation necessitates that the tie-rod be rethreaded by 1-1/4" and then shortened by approximately 1". Jan 14 Gearbox & Overdrive Rebuild (7.Jan 23 Voltage Regulator With Alternator.Jan 26 Saving An OD From The Scrap Heap.
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